Russian Travel Guide

Gzhel. Folk craft traditions

This unique craft got its name from an old village outside of Moscow where masters of the potter’s trade made their home. Over time, more than 20 villages near that original village of Gzhel also began focusing on the manufacture of ceramic and porcelain. The porcelain produced in and near Gzhel stands apart thanks to its use of paint containing cobaltous oxide in the decoration process. It is this paint that produces the vibrant blue color that distinguishes Ghzel ceramics from all others. Curiously, the chemical element of cobalt that is used to decorate Gzhel porcelain was named in honor of underground sprites called kobolds. According to legend, kobolds live in the bowels of the earth and scheme against miners, trying to prevent them from stealing the treasures of the earth. When painted onto porcelain, cobalt shines a brilliant blue. During the painting stage, however, the cobalt pa...

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THE ART OF LACEMAKING. VOLOGDA'S SNOWY PATTERNS

In the beginning was the word. Kruzhevo, the word for lace in Russian, is related to the word okruzhat’, or encircle, and was originally applied to any ornamentation decorating the hems or sides of a garment. It did not have to include an airy concatenation of thread. Some styles of embroidery, ornamental trimming, gems, and pearls were previously also called kruzhevo. It was not until the 17th century, in conjunction with the fashion for lace collars and cuffs, that the word kruzhevo came to refer to the specific decorative style we now know as lace. There are to this day many centers of lacemaking in Russia, each with its own history and style. But Vologda stands out, and is probably the most famous of all such locales. Lacemaking is a signature craft in this northern town. Vologda’s lace covers the city in a delicate gauze, clothing it in snowy-soft beauty all year round.